Beans: Mabo Coffee Roasters, Bourbon, Natural, Muganza Gisagara, Rwanda.
Shop: Mabo Coffee Roasters, webshop, Bucharest, Romania.
Mabo Coffee Roasters – Muganza: Background information.
This Muganza comes from Mabo Coffee Roasters, a roaster owned by World Coffee Roasting vice-champion Bogdan Georgescu. Bogdan works in the IT business and only started doing Specialty Coffee around 5 years ago. In these past five years, Bogdan managed to become the Romanian roasting champion of 2019 and get silver on the world roasting championships.
Café de Gisagara is run by Good Neighbors, an NGO from Korea. The project began in 2014 in Rwanda and before the project began, there was little attention given to coffee quality. The region and it’s inhabitants were poor and so there was little infrastructure that existed in this region. Good Neighbors brought change to the region. Income from the sales of the coffee by Café de Gisagara is reinvested into the region in many different ways. A training farm was developed by the NGO, and a number of infrastructure investments were made, all to help improve production quality and the lives of the people living there. For example: better farming techniques to reverse soil degradation are being taught. The aim of the project is to reduce poverty by helping the farmers to improve their coffee quality and the income their crops bring, but also by giving them the means by which they can do this sustainably. If the people take care of nature, nature will take care of the people.
This coffee was grown at an altitude of about 1700m and was cultivated by a group that consists out of 2000 farmers. As a cupping score, the Muganza got 90 points.
Muganza: Opening the package.
Bogdan has created a very nice package to put the coffee in. When I received the package my eyes were immediately drawn to the art that is used. It reminds me of the 1850’s french art, the time of Vincent van Gogh amongst others. It depicts a a group of people watching over the shoulder of someone drinking a cup of coffee. As if they all want to be part of that experience.
On the back of the package you will find all sorts of information about the coffee that’s inside: Region, Washing station, Variety, Fermentation, Altitude and cupping score. For the tasting notes, Bogdan refers to his website where a full listing can be found.
When opening the package, there is a soft fruity note coming off of the beans. this scent comes together with a tea leaf aroma that gives this coffee a fresh aspect to it. The beans are crispy and give off the same tea leaf flavour. Only after a while does the bean get a little sour in flavour. The beans are beautifully roasted; equal roasting color and no defects at all! What a sight to behold.
The ground coffee has notes of blackberries and dried apricot and a hint of orange. underneath these fruity aroma’s there is a spicy note to give the scent a little body, it reminds me a little of nutmeg.
Mabo Coffee Roasters – Muganza: The tasting.
The Muganza is an omni-roast coffee. This mean that it is suitable for both filter as well as for espresso brewing. The most research was done on the V60, Aeropress, Siphon and Gabi Master A dripper. On the day of writing the review, my new grinder came in, the Eureka Atom Specialty 75 and so Ive added a little note to the review for espresso. Mind you, this is just a short note.
When brewing this coffee you will get a heavily sugared tea aroma that is carried by vanilla. This sweet scent is slowly replaced when the coffee cools down. Instead, you will find raspberry and blackberry aroma’s. Letting the coffee cool down even more will result in the addition of orange while the blackberry aroma gets stronger.
The Muganza is a heavy flavoured coffee that will keep you occupied when drinking it. The first sip will immediately reveal the basics of this coffee. Natural sweetness that is, at first, overwhelmed by cinnamon and nutmeg notes. As soon as you swirl the coffee in your mouth and slurp oxygen inside your mouth, dried apricot and orange peel pop up. This is all in a very natural way; balanced flavours that are the true flavours of these fruits, not the candy-version. In the beginning the mouthfeel feels winey but softens when the coffee cools down. It is then that the blackberry note pops up and starts to make it’s way to forefront. The mouthfeel has changed into a very delicate winey mouthfeel that reminds me of a ripe Amarone wine. The red fruit in combination with the spices perfectly fit and in the aftertaste black pepper kernels pop up as well. All of this is accompanied by a medium orange acidity. The aftertaste lingers and develops, bringing notes of cinnamon, nutmeg, dry cocoa and even a hint of Yogi-tea.
My best result on this coffee came on the V60 with a 18/265 recipe at 93 degrees Celsius.
As an espresso:
Unfortunately I only had a few shots left to brew an espresso. Unfortunately, because this coffee turned out to be the best Rwanda I’ve ever had. What strikes me most about this coffee as an espresso, is the combination of the winey mouthfeel, orange acidity and fruity notes. It is in perfect harmony and superbly support each other in this coffee.
The blackberry and apricot are there, especially when the coffee cools down a little. They blend in easily with the mouthfeel and acidity making it feel like drinking a warm fruity wine juice. In the aftertaste you will find some raisin sweetness together with red grapes, including the tannins. When breathing some air back through your nose, via a closed mouth, brings up a flavour of sweet dark chocolate and licorice/salmiak. The salmiak always go’s really well with an orange juicy acidity and it lingers for quite a while.
After drinking the filter version of this coffee, this espresso version really surprised me. I thought the filter was good, this is nothing short of superb!
If only I had gotten my Eureka Atom Specialty 75 grinder a couple of days sooner, I wonder if I had even made it into a filter review at all haha!
Mabo Coffee roasters – Muganza: The verdict.
I don’t give out numbers to tell you what I think of a coffee. I always let my writing do the talking. With this coffee it would be clear that as a Rwanda coffee this would get the highest grade possible from me. As a filter coffee this Rwanda is good; all the notes are in the coffee and the balance between fruity and spicy is great. But as an espresso, this coffee is just superb. Every aspect of this coffee is in perfect proportion; mouthfeel, acidity, fruitiness, aftertaste. With this coffee, Bogdan Georgescu really shows why he is the vice-champion of the World Roasting Championships. Thank you!!
As a courtesy I’ve placed the link to this coffee right here. This is a non-paid link so I do not get money when you click on it.